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Norfolk Island Album

page 5

Wednesday morning we have a little time to spare and head down to look at Bloody Bridge. There were probably many more brutal incidents during the convict settlement than that which gave its name to Bloody Bridge, yet, somehow, this one has captured public imagination more than any other.

A group of convicts were building a bridge under the supervision of an especially brutal overseer. The convicts responded to a perceived final provocation and attacked and killed him, walling up his body in the stonework of the bridge.

Now I'm not going to say those are bloodstains we're looking at, but the day following the attack, blood was certainly discovered seeping through the stonework, and the body of the overseer was uncovered.

Execution was swift, (and often seen as a prayed-for end to life on the island). I think what conveyed the spirit of the settlement more than anything else for me, though, was the story about the orange trees, which, like the lemons, covered much of the island following an early agricultural project. The commander deemed oranges too much of a luxury for the prisoners and had the orange trees felled.

It's another Norfolk day, and there is a fine swell coming in on the nearby shore.

After lunch I visit the Cyclorama, a 360 degree visual rendering of Norfolk history. Can't see why, but you aren't allowed to take photographs. Bloody silly, if you ask me.

Wednesday afternoon, it's Emily Bay again, and the pasta is duly prepared for a dinner party that night. We head up to the Bond, and I grab a bottle of the island's trademark "Bloody Bridge" gin to bring home with me and a Babich's white for dinner. It has travelled superbly.

This week is disappearing fast. Thursday we are doing one of the Kingston walks, and we head down there fairly early so as to miss the late morning heat.

Wild chooks are a feature of the island. Here we can see a restored building alongside an original as it remains. A lot of work has gone into the restorations and many of them fill present day purposes.

Just to the right is the Kingston Jetty. There is a proposal - there is always a proposal of some sort being mooted on Norfolk - to build an extension onto the Kingston Jetty that would enable cruise ships to dock. It would be extremely vulnerable to weather conditions, and the prospect of the island's population almost doubling periodically would likely make huge demands on its infrastructure.

With water an uncertain commodity for starters, it is unlikely to proceed much further at present, even if the finance was available.

On the other hand, a chain of public, composting-toilets for tourists could conceivably contribute something valuable to the island economy...

We'd probably have to start by cleaning up this lot, though. Can't have tourists dodging chicken shit. There would need to be regulations....

Anyway, we make our way to the bottom of the hill.

There are information boards at regular intervals

For those who are happy just to sit, well, you can do just that. There's something about just looking at the sea, anyway, especially when it shows the myriad shades of blue that suround the island.

Over to the right are various other buildings in various stages of restoration

Let's go...

It's a steady climb, and bearing in mind the average age of the typical visitor, some attention has been given to seats for catching the breath on.

Nicknames (nikniems) are, as I have mentioned, a feature of the island.

Onwards

What was I saying about the need for regulation...?

What else do they envisage that I am likely to do on the walkway provided?

At intervals there are lookouts, and another opportunity for a break.

More nikniems

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Track Reports

Annotated ARC
Brief Track Notes: WAITAKERE RANGES

NORTH ISLAND

SOUTH ISLAND

NORFOLK ISLAND

In the Steps of Jack Leigh

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Fitness Building for the Elderly and Stout

Food for Tramping

General Advice:
Specifically oriented to the Heaphy Track but relevant to other long walks for beginners and older walkers

New Zealand Plants
(an ongoing project)

Links to Tramping Resource Websites

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